The Kid Who Saved the Park |
How a teenage naturalist, a dying inventor, and a British adventurer made Rocky Mountain National Park happen before anyone called it Earth Day |
BEFORE THE COFFEE GETS COLD
Yesterday was Earth Day. April is Earth Month. Moe stopped by and asked how I was celebrating.
I told him I was sitting on my porch looking at the same mountains that have been there for five million years and thinking about the people who made sure nobody could buy them.
He said that counted.
There is a version of Earth Day that involves hashtags and corporate emails about sustainability. That version does not particularly interest Buck. But there is another version. The one where a skinny fourteen-year-old named Enos Mills arrived alone in Estes Park in 1884, met John Muir five years later on a camping trip in California, and came home and spent the next twenty-six years making sure this valley stayed exactly what it was.
That version is worth ten minutes of your morning.
Bigfoot Days is also this weekend. Good luck on your search.
SIT DOWN. THIS ONE'S GOOD.
The Kid Who Saved the Park
How a teenage naturalist, a dying inventor, and a British adventurer made Rocky Mountain National Park happen before anyone called it Earth Day
Rocky Mountain National Park was not inevitable.
The land that became the park in 1915 had been hunted, ranched, mined, and very nearly swallowed whole by an Irish earl who wanted it for his private shooting preserve. The Forest Service opposed a national park. Local ranchers opposed it. Mining interests had active claims in the Never Summer Mountains they did not want disturbed.
What turned the tide was not a government program. It was three people who looked at what was in front of them and decided it was worth keeping.
Enos Mills got here first. He arrived in 1884 at age fourteen, alone, looking for work. He learned the high country the way you learn it by walking every inch of it in every season. He built the Longs Peak Inn, guided climbers up the peak for decades, and trained the first female nature guides the National Park Service ever certified.
Then he met John Muir. Muir told him to go home and fight for his mountains. Mills spent the next twenty-six years doing exactly that. Sixteen books. Thousands of lectures. Letters to senators. Letters to presidents. He made enemies. He made progress. On January 26, 1915, President Woodrow Wilson signed the Rocky Mountain National Park Act into law. Mills was forty-four years old. He died seven years later at fifty-two, having lived to see the thing he built from nothing.
He never used the phrase Earth Day. He did not need a calendar to tell him what mattered.
F.O. Stanley bankrolled the campaign. He had arrived in 1903 with tuberculosis and a steam car, survived against his doctor's expectations, and decided the valley had been good enough to him that he ought to return the favor. He funded Mills' lectures and lobbying, was present at the park's dedication, and called it one of the best things he had ever been part of. This from a man who also invented the Stanley Steamer and built one of the most famous hotels in the American West.
Isabella Bird had planted the seed forty years earlier without knowing it. She came through in 1873, climbed Longs Peak with a one-eyed mountain man she may or may not have been in love with, went home to England, and wrote a bestseller about it. Her readers became the conservation-minded public that Mills later converted into supporters. She never came back. She never knew what she started.
Three people. None of them set out to save a park. They just paid attention to what was in front of them and acted accordingly.
The park is 415 square miles. One-third of it is alpine tundra that functions like the Arctic. The tundra plants along Trail Ridge Road take up to a thousand years to establish. A single boot print off the designated trail can take decades to recover.
Stay on the trail. Mills spent twenty-six years making it worth the effort. |
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